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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.